Yes, you can make professional-quality soft plastic baits at home, and it's easier than it looks. You heat plastisol to just over 350°F, stir in color and glitter, pour or inject it into an aluminum mold, let it cool for a minute or two, and pull out a finished bait. A basic starter kit setup pays for itself fast. One gallon of plastic makes roughly 415 five-inch stick baits.
This guide walks you through exactly what you need, how to choose your first mold and plastisol, and the step-by-step process to pour your first batch safely.
Why make your own soft plastic baits?
Three reasons bring most anglers to bait making: cost, customization, and the thrill of catching a fish on something you built.
The cost case is hard to argue with. A bag of ten 5-inch stick baits runs about $8 at the store. To get the 415 baits you can pour from a single gallon of plastisol, you'd buy roughly 41 bags, about $328. Pour them yourself and the per-bait cost drops to pennies. After a few sessions, your mold and supplies have paid for themselves.
Beyond savings, you control everything: the exact color, the amount of salt and scent, the durometer (firmness), and even custom laminate color combinations the store doesn't carry. And once you land a bass on a bait you poured yourself, you're hooked for good.
What you need to make soft plastic baits
Here's the complete beginner's equipment checklist. The good news: most of it is inexpensive or already in your house.
- A heat source. A 700-watt microwave is the easiest and most popular choice for heating plastisol. A hot plate with a thin saucepan also works. A new microwave runs $50 to $60, or grab a used one from a thrift store.
- A thermometer. A probe or infrared (radiant) thermometer is essential, because plastisol has to reach the right temperature (350°F) to convert properly and pour cleanly.
- Microwaveable measuring cups. For measuring and heating your plastisol.
- A stirring stick. A metal rod, butter knife, or screwdriver all work fine.
- A mold. Open pour or injection (more on choosing below).
- Plastisol. The liquid plastic that becomes your bait.
- Colorant and glitter. To match the baits you actually fish.
- An injector, only if you choose injection molds.
- A griddle. Optional but helpful for open-pour molds: keeping the mold warm gives you cleaner baits with fewer flaws.
Safety gear (don't skip this)
Hot plastisol can burn you, so gear up before you pour:
- Heat-resistant gloves: mechanic's, welding, or thick wool gloves. Plastisol heats past 350°F to convert from liquid to plastic.
- Safety goggles to protect your eyes while pouring or injecting.
- Good ventilation. Work in a well-aired space, just as you would when painting a room.
- Cover up. Wear closed-toe shoes, long sleeves, and pants to prevent burns from splashes.
How to choose your first mold
Picking your first mold comes down to two questions: what bait will save you the most money, and which bait style fits you.
Start with the bait you lose or use the most. If you burn through ned rigs, punching baits, or stick baits, a mold for that bait will pay off the fastest. The mold that gives you the biggest economic advantage is the right first mold.
Then choose your bait-making style, open pour or injection:
| Open Pour | Injection | |
|---|---|---|
| Best for | Creativity, detailed/laminate baits, beginners on a budget | Speed and volume |
| Equipment | No injector needed | Requires an injector |
| Bait detail | More intricate designs and colors | Slightly more limited |
| Speed | Slower, one pour at a time | Faster, more baits per session |
For most beginners, an open-pour mold is the simplest, most affordable entry point, with no injector required. If you know you'll be making baits in volume, an injection setup is worth it. The easiest path of all is a starter kit, which bundles the mold, plastic, and supplies so you're not guessing.
Aluminum milled molds (like Angling A.i.'s) give baits a shiny, store-bought finish. If you want a duller, more natural look, cast aluminum or stone molds do that, though stone molds need occasional oiling so baits don't stick. Browse options by bait category or by species and technique.
How to choose plastisol
Plastisol trips up most beginners, but it comes down to one word: durometer, a measure of firmness. The higher the durometer, the firmer the bait.
- Soft / low durometer: maximum action, ideal for ribbon tail worms and anything that needs a lot of wiggle. Softer plastic tears off the hook faster.
- Medium durometer: the best all-around starting point, with great action and reasonable durability. You can add softener or hardener to fine-tune it.
- Firm / high durometer: best for tubes and baits that need to hold up.
Swimbaits generally call for a medium to medium-firm durometer depending on size. When in doubt, start with medium and adjust from there. Buy a smaller quantity first while you dial in your preference.
You'll also choose between floating and sinking plastisol. Floating plastic slows your bait's fall; sinking plastic gives you a faster drop for fishing the bottom.
Color and glitter basics
There are hundreds of colorants and glitters, but you don't need them all. Pick colors you actually fish. Stocking the primary pigments (red, blue, and yellow) lets you mix many others, but if you love a specific color like watermelon, buy that colorant directly.
Glitter comes in sizes from .008 up to .060. Manufacturers most commonly use .015 and .035/.040. A few ounces lasts a long time. As an example recipe, a classic watermelon red uses .035 black, .015 red, and .035 red flake.
Step-by-step: pouring your first batch
- Set up and gear up. Work in a ventilated space. Put on gloves and goggles. If using an open-pour mold, warm it on a griddle.
- Measure your plastisol into a microwaveable cup.
- Heat it in short bursts, stirring between each, until it reaches the temperature your plastisol calls for (generally just past 350°F to fully convert). Stir gently to avoid bubbles.
- Add colorant and glitter and stir until evenly mixed.
- Pour or inject into the mold cavities, filling them completely and steadily to avoid air pockets.
- Let the baits cool for a minute or two until they firm up.
- Remove, trim, and store. Pop the baits out, trim or pull off from the runner, and store them flat in bait bags or lay out to cure.
That's it. Your first baits won't be flawless. Everyone's first pour is not perfect, but you'll improve every session.
Frequently asked questions
Is making your own soft plastic baits worth it?
For most anglers, yes. One gallon of plastisol yields about 415 five-inch stick baits, roughly $328 worth at retail. After your first few sessions, the mold and supplies pay for themselves, and every bait after that costs pennies.
What temperature does plastisol need to reach?
Plastisol needs to heat to just over 350°F to start the reaction that converts it from liquid to usable plastic. A probe or infrared thermometer takes the guesswork out. After the first heat plastisol can be injected from 300°F to 350°F.
Do I need an injector to start?
No. Open-pour molds require no injector and are the most affordable, beginner-friendly way to start. You only need an injector if you choose injection molds for higher-volume pouring.
What's the best mold for a beginner?
The mold that makes the bait you fish most often. That's where you'll save the most money. Stick baits, ned rigs, and curl-tail worms are popular, easy first molds. A starter kit removes the guesswork.
Is bait making safe to do at home?
Yes, with basic precautions: heat-resistant gloves, safety goggles, good ventilation, and covered skin. Treat hot plastisol with the same respect you'd give hot grease.
Ready to pour your first bait?
The simplest way to start is with everything in one box. The Angling A.i. Premium Injection Starter Kit includes the mold, injector, plastisol, and supplies you need to make your first baits today. Prefer open pour? Browse our beginner starter kits and molds by category.
'Make Your Baits-Your Way', and catch your next fish on something you built.
By the Angling A.i. team